Tuesday, 7 August 2012

Mum's Gone to Sweden: Sitting on the dock of the bay

Strombron bridge, Stockholm
Rory on Strombron. The smaller boat on the left is a
very popular youth hostel. 
There's an awful lot of water in Stockholm which makes for a breathtakingly beautiful city. Spread over many islands, with the Baltic Sea to the east and Lake Malaren to the west, the city stretches out into the open air, giving the visitor an invigorating sense of space.

Two minutes from our hotel and we could walk over Strombron bridge into the old town or choose Skeppsholmenbron to visit the island of Skeppsholmen. Nothing was very far away: a bustling vibrant city only metres away from parks, woodlands and fishing spots. I felt instantly at ease in the city: buildings are grand but not ostentatious, the streets are wide, pavements are clean, it looks prosperous. It is a capital city which doesn't have to try hard to impress but it certainly looked its best in the warm sunshine which accompanied our stay.

The main square in Gamla Stan: Stortorget.
On our first morning in the capital we sauntered over to Gamla Stan, the Old Town, where, south of the Royal Palace, streets were narrower, cobbled and the whole feel was more akin to a city scene in Southern Europe. The main square, Stortorget, was an execution site in 1520 during the 'Stockholm Bloodbath'. Now it is a place for relaxing, eating and drinking. The streets leading off Stortorget are packed full of craft and souvenir shops, together with a good selection of restaurants. Forgetting we were in Sweden and not Italy, we had a great lunch in Restaurant Michelangelo. The walls are decorated with scenes from the Sistine Chapel which is all very well but a little off-putting when you are happily chomping on a capricciosa and can see Adam's salami dangling in your line of vision.

Stenbock Palace, Riddarholmen
Tagged onto the west side of Gamla Stan, over another bridge and you are in Riddarholmen. On a sunny July day, when many Swedes have left Stockholm to go on their own holidays, there are pockets of the city which are empty and it was a real joy to have these spots to ourselves. In fact, throughout the whole holiday it became a daily event to find a good bench to sit on. Having a family of three is, I have discovered, the optimal number for bench-sitting: plenty of room for all cheeks and the option  for one member of the party to shuffle along to one end if he or she is having a sulk. Mood swings linked to blood sugar levels were a common occurrence on our trip: a sit on a bench to slurp drinks and eat apples stolen from the breakfast buffet soon restored the equilibrium.

Returning back to the main city, via Riksgatan, we came across this sight:

Sculpture, Rag and Bone with blanket, Stockholm

"Ooh it's one of those living statues" I said, pointing at the unmoving animal dressed in rags.
"Must be bloody clever if they can get a fox to stay still for that long", replied husband, slowly shaking his head in disbelief.

This little bronze sculpture was called 'Rag and Bone with Blanket' and was created in 2009 by Welsh artist Laura Ford; part of a series where she used characters from Beatrix Potter to show how people can become disenfranchised from society. Mr Tod, the fox, represents homelessness.

It was a different animal altogether which caught our eye when, later that evening, we walked through the central park, Kungstradgardsgatan, and saw people outside TGI Friday's restaurant.

"Why are all those people dressed as Scooby Doo?" asked Rory. "Is it a stag night or something?"

On closer inspection, it would seem the Scooby Doo impersonators were normal diners, wrapped up in orange/brown fleeces to keep warm. We were happy walking about without coats but the Swedes do like to eat outside if possible and like to stay toasty when doing so.

Well I guess that wraps up this mystery!




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20 comments:

  1. Poor Mr Tod... I love that you thought he was a person :)

    Stockholm looks beautiful, and seems a bit "bigger" than CPH in terms of building size etc. They do love to wrap themselves in blankets and eat outside these Scandinavians don't they?

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  2. I know, what an idiot!

    It does feel bigger than Copenhagen, maybe more spread out, but they are both equally beautiful cities in their own right.

    They like their CO2 producing patio heaters too, which made me smile as they are very big on being eco-friendly in other ways!

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  3. Any girls with dragon tattoos?

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    1. I don't know. Couldn't see under their fleeces.

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  4. It alll looks lovely, if unpronounceable! How are your Swedish language skills?!

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    1. Couldn't speak very much apart from a few pleasantries, but their English was so fantastic, often with an American twang (all those movies and TV shows they watch with subtitles I imagine) that we didn't try very hard. We did manage to work out some written words; there was a certain logic to the structure of the words that made it much easier to translate than understand verbally.

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  5. How lovely of them to provide sulking benches! ;-) Stockholm looks lovely, were you checking off your Steig Larsson landmarks?

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    1. I know, they had them all over Sweden: we used them frequently.

      To be honest, I couldn't remember any of the specific locations. Of course, if I were smart, I'd just tell you that I did and I could squeeze another blog post out of it ;-))

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  6. Did you have any 'how many times can you say 'Skeppsholmenbron' without stuttering' contests? I think I would have been tempted.

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    1. I think whenever we needed to say that word we just said it differently, or pointed to the map! I think I called it skeppi bridge.

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  7. The Swedes are such a practical lot., gotta love them. That means then that you don't need any going out clothes cause you'll all just be doing a scooby dooby doo snuggy thing anyway. Makes for easy travel! Heading out to check out what else you did....

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    1. I was amazed at how tanned they were - beautiful brown legs in teeny shorts and that was just the blokes! So they must shake off the blankets some time!

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  8. There's a big Swedish heritage here in Chicago and people will stay outside eating and BBQ'ing till it's almost winter - wrapped in blankets. How funny!

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    1. Ha, well there you go! I must try it at home but the temptation when it's a bit nippy is to just go inside.

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  9. Oh the blanket thing seals it for me.....I have to go there....not only does it look fabulous but you get to be wrapped up in a blanket too!

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    1. I think I have a photo of me wrapped up in a blankie at the last hotel. It wasn't even cold but I wanted to wear the same as everyone else.

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  10. Like the way you raided the brekkie bar too. I'm glad it's not just me. :)

    The colours of the buildings in the second pic are gorgeous. What a colourful city.

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    1. A least I don't make up a whole stock of sandwiches like you do, Sarah! ;-)

      I was surprised at the colours of the buildings - it certainly wasn't a grey city.

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  11. You gotta love those Scooby Doo blankets. Do they sell them in Ikea or something? Great photos - looks like a beautiful city, with gorgeous skies and light.

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    1. I had better check out Ikea and find out. Elsewhere on the holiday we found them in a variety of colours, draped neatly over the chairs and they seem to co-ordinate with the decor.
      It was a beautiful city. Glad I was able to capture some of that in my snaps.

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